Lasting and fastening machine



Jan. 13, 1931. I F. w. MERRIYCK I 1,788,841

LASTING AND FASTENING MACHINE Filed April 5. 1926 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 l I I I I l I 1 a l l I I I. .J V

Jan. 13, I931. F. w. MERRICK 1,788,341

LASTING AND FASTENING MACHINE Filed April 5, 19 s Sheets-Sheet 2 Jan'. 13, 1931. F. w. MERRICK 1,788,841

I LASTINQ AND FASTENING MACHINE Filed April 5, 1926 3 Sheets-Sheet -3 Y FRANK iw.,,M -R1z ici or BOSTEQN', msmnusms Application 'filed ApriI ,5,

The invention-relates to machines for use attaching the Upper of a "shoe'to the sole.

in the manufaeturegofboots and shoes, and

particularly to maehin'es for perform ng lasting-o erations and .c'on o ntltherewith Specifically, it has relation to'machines-for performing the operations ust mentloned 1n the case ,ofshoes of'the outturned-upper class,

for instance thesO-Called stitch down or Veldtschoen type of shoes.

I One general obfectof the 'i-nventionis to provide a machine of novel and mproved character forqlast'ingia shoe. 0f the class aforesaid and in additionffastening:the loose outtnrned margin of'the upper thereof to. the sole-margin proj ecting' beyond the last. An-

other, is toprovide'amachine iorthe said our Jose 0 eratin u 011' a novel orinci le'to l 23 V 4 e an tomatically;tighten the upper around the top and side of the last so that it shall eonioi m snugly thereto without any wrinkles or slaclg'whatever. Another, is to provide a machine embodying the principlefjust mentioned and including means wliereby,'as the operation of fastening the upper to the solemargin proceeds, the upper margin shall be moved along automatically at manua'llycontrollable rate, with Capacity for a change in the differential raterelativetothe sole so that ingoing around convexities of the last, as fol-example the 'fore part and toe, any excess of the material of the upper-margin may ;;h'e,d'istribi ited between successive stitches or ther fastenings, and thereby may be p're vented from showing-.-

-' naceordance with one'part' of the 'inven ti'oiifI provide, in combination with a work:- rest fonsupporti'ng for thelasting andfas teni'ng' Operations a last a and shoe-parts} ap plied thereto, 1neansby which'the looseoutspread margin of'the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from the last and thereby held from m'ovement' toward the-lastside, and means acting upon the upper at a- 4 point-"betweenthe last-side and the said engaging and holding means toloen'd the intermediate portionof t'henpper-towa d the'surface ofthe right sidefof'the solepth erehy i y zzhteiiin the u )Ioeraroundthe to andside ofthe last and Iarrange fastening-applying specification.

216; Seria =nf etsil meansin such relations that fasteningsseeuring" such ibent "portion of the upper to the saidisuritace of the sole are-applied along-the creaseofthe-upper. e c

' f "Another part'oi' theinvention consistsfin- 55 of the nature ofthe invention.

In the drawingsr V i Flis a partly sectional elevation of oertain of the parts ta comhinedjlasting and; fastening machine, illustratingthose parts which are more immediately involved in the invention, together with certain associated portions ofthe machine, and showing also i'portions of a 'last, upper, and solggLwhichare be ng pera d uponf .p w Fig. Zis a plan View of the'subjectfinetter that i shown in b omi ti g h nce .tiions oflest,uppe y nclsole. i Y r p 3 is an elevation of certain ofthe parts ofFi g. l ncl 2, looking from the left hand side'in thejlatter views-I 'Fig, '4 shows in sideelevationthe .presser V foot otFig's' 1, 2 and 3, and 'Fig 5 isa"b0t- 5 tom view thereof. 7 I "Figs. 6 and 7 SheetQ, are cross-sectional views illustrating the holding of the uppermargin and 'tlie gtig'litening of the upper around the last. 99

end-oftheir feeding-stroke endthe supple. 7

mental presser 12 at the starting pointof its feeding stroke, with the actuating devices for supplemental presser 12 adjusted to give the maximum length of stroke to the supplemental presser. The dotted lines' show the parts in the positions occupied by them at the conclusion of the feeding stroke of th supplemental presser.

Figs. 10 and 11, Sheet 3, are detail views on an enlarged scale showing a minimum feedmovement of the supplemental presser, and Figs. 12 and 13 are views similar toFigs.

'10 and 11, but illustrating the parts in the same positions as in full lines and dotted lines, respectively, Fig.4), for a long feedmovement. h

Fig. .1 1, Sheet 2, is a plan View illustrating the effect of movement of the uppermargin engaging and holding device from the position thereof shown in Fig. 10 to the position shown in Fig. 11. 1

F g. 15'is a plan view, similar to Fig. 9, but Showing a modification. I Having reference to the drawings Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate the chief characteristicfeature of ashoe of the outturnedupper class, namely the outturned marginal portion, 100, of the upper 10, resting upon the right side of the outstanding marginal portion of the sole 9. By right side? I in tend that surface of the sole which is uppermost in a shoe as the latteris worn, as contradisti'nguished from the tread surface. In practice, the upper and sole of a shoe of such class are connected together by means of fastenings engaging with the said outtur'ned or outstanding marginal portions. These fastenings may vary in character but usually consist of stitches, as at 11, Figs. 6 and 7. Only a so-called inner seam is shown in the drawings, but usually the fastenings comprise an inner seam (shown) and an outer seam (not shown) that is applied subsequently.

The machine that is partly shown in, the drawings is one intended to apply fastenings constituted by stitches-11. The stitching devices include an awl 1, carried by a vertically reciprocating awl-bar 2; also a straight needle 3, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 6, and 7, carried by a vertically reciprocating needle-bar 4 which works in guides in connectienrwith a needle-post 5 and also, in thecase of the complete ma chine, the usual parts cooperating with the needle in the formation of stitches.

The said machine is equipped with a workrest 6 serving also as an under-clamp, and with a work-presser, orpresser-foot, 7, co-

operating in usual manner with the awl and needle in the stitch-forming operations, etc;

As thus far referred to the said parts, and other parts (not shown) which are associated therewith in practice, are or may be, excepting as pointed out hereinafter, the .same as in the machine shown and described in U. S.

LettersPatent for improvement in sewing machines, No. 1,077 ,625, granted under date of Nov. 4, 1913. The needle-post 5 is fixed or stationary, while the under-clamp or workrest 6 the resser 7 and the'awl-bar and awl After the sole 9 and upper 10 of a shoe of the outturned-upper class have been assembled in connection with a last 8, the loose upper-margin, prior to being fastened to the outstanding sole-margin, stands out more or less from the last-side, over the said outstanding'sole-margin; that is to say, it extends from the top of the last obliquely outward and downward to the outer portion of the sole-margin, somewhat as at the right hand side of Fig. 6. The devices shown herein embodying the principles of the invention 7 utilize this'outspread condition of the loose upper-margin. e i

In the use of theinechanism shown in the drawings, the assembled last, sole, and upper are applied to the machine while presser-7 ing sole-margin is in engagement'with the occupies anelevated position as in Fig. 6. As applied, the tread-surface of the projectthickness ofiipper are in contact with the work-rest 6,]: the last-side and interposed outer side of presser 7, and the projecting sole-margin and the obliquely 'outspread loose margin of the upper occupy positions between the presser and the work-rest and extend somewhat beyond the presser at the side of the presser opposite that at which the last is located.

In the drawings the means by which, after a last and associated shoe-parts have been applied to the machine as in Fig. 6, the loose outspread margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from the last, and thereby held from movement toward the last-side, is a supplemental presser 12. The said supplemental presser is located at the oppositeside of the awl 1, presser 7, and needle 3, from that at which the last is held.

The operation of placing the last and shoeparts in position as just described isperformed when the said supplemental presser 12 (like presser 7), occupies an elevated position so that as the outstanding margins of thesole and upper are passed in" under the upraised presser 7 they may pass in under theupraised supplemental presser 12 too. By descent of the supplemental presser the outstanding loose margin of the upper is clamped by the supplemental presser, as in Fig. 6, against the surface of the right side of the sole-margin;

Tolprovide for clamping and unclamping movement of the supplemental presser 12 it is" constituted by the 'freeieiztrernity of; one arm, 121 of a lever-which 'is-mounted pivot-Q ally'by. mea-ns ofcenterescrewsl22, 122, upon.

7 a; supporting carrier 14, with capacity to swing relative to such'carrier in a vertical or np,-anddown direction around a horizontal axisextendingllengthwise of the said screws.

To actuate. the supplemental resser yieldl ingly toward the surface of work-rest .16, to

engag ethe'loose margin of the upper and temporarily: hold such margin pressed'firmly ag'ainstthe surface {of the right side of the projectingsole-margin, asin Figs. 1,z=6,'and 7., the tail 128 of the presser-leverhas com.- bined therewith, ag'spring 124, the tension of which operates'to producezsuchclamping movement and, holding action. The spring 124 is shown confined between the said tail 123 and;a portion of'sthe supporting carrier 1% for the presser-lever. In the regular work ing of the machine reverse or .unclamping movement of they presser in opposition to. the

s rin is roduced automaticall in this instance, by means of nuts 125, Figs. 1 and 2, upon the upper threaded end ofa rod 126 extendingthrough ahole in the tail 1230f the supplemental presser, the 'lower end of such rod being connected with an arm 127 fixed upon a. rockshaft 129. By movement of the rod 126 and muesin one direction the pressure of the nuts against the tail 123 is relieved and vclosinginoven'ientof'the supplemental presser12 'underthe action of the spring. 12 1 is permitted :Movement of the rod 126 in theopposite direction causes the nuts 125 to act against the tail 123 so as to open the supplemental presser away from mQVem'entof the supplemental presser has taken place. {In virtue of presser 7 remaining'lifted for the time being, it follows, inasmuch as the supplemental presser in closing vtowardthe work-rest or clamp 6 takes hold or'the free margin of ap ortion of the upper that spreads out laterally fromthe last-side, attlie side of the awl and needle, opposite that at which the last issituated, that a portion of the upper which isinterme'diate the last-side and the/supplemental preisser continuesto'extend obliquely outward as in Fig. 6, from the last-side to the point at which the margin is clamped against the surface f the right side of the projecting solemargin by the supplemental presser.-

"Following.thelcompletion of the closing Y movement of the"supplemental presser, and was while such presseriis holding the outer por tion of of upper. in

7 takes place in the regular. :workingjofthe stitching'.fn1echanism; In} thus descending the, presser 7. acts,fnearer'the last-side, that" contact with the surface of the right sideof fs' the projecting sole-marginas in Fig.fl6, lthe"1 descentofthe upliftedpresserf f-rom itsipo' 'v sition in Fig.6 mum ocupiedby it'in Fig. 1

is to "sayrbetween the pointxat which such pressureand contact are maintained by the supplemental presser, and the adj oiningilastside, upon -.the,portion' of upper extending obliquelyout'wardfrom the last to the-sole in Fig. fiend bends. such-portion against'th'e sole. close to suchside of thexlast,.as in Figs.

landt'Y. .Injdoingso ittightens and smooths the .upper around the said side and the. top

of the last. j

The awl 1 and needle 3 work closely alongin the presser 7, in the operations by which the fastening stitches 1.1 are produced, there by; providing for applying such -stitches to the inar 'ins .-of-.the uppenand1sole between the last-side and the clamping and holding means12, To providefor-supporting the last and applied shoe-parts in proper 'posiin under the last-side at the bottom of the last, in wwhat is called the f crease, and 1 also for'enabling-the stitches toipas's through the upper. and the sole with an inclination in-.

tionenablingisuchstitches to beapplied close ward towardthecenter ofthe-last, I dispose I the work-supporting top of the work-rest or lower clamp-member 6 at anian'gle to the line ofreciproc'atione f the awliand needle, {as

illustrated-sin.Figsj. 1, and 7,'with the portion thereof'which :is located at the -.rear side of-the awlaud -needle (the'right hand side in the drawings) higherthan that portion which. is located at the: front side (the left handiside in theldrawingsy. Throughthis inclination of the top of the work-rest, a last and 'shoe partfs applied thereto aresup- .portedfor the lasting and fastening-applying'operationswith the ,pl'aneof. the sole. at i an inclination presenting the last at onev side of'and; clear oft-the path of the awl and needle, while the-apex o fithe'entrant anglebetween the last side and theprojecting': margin of the, sole into jwhic h'the iportion of upper V intermediate the upper and the engaging and i" holdin'g'ineans :12is bentby presser 7 in its i reciprocating movements, is located substantially in the said path.

As willbe perceived invFigs. 6 and 7, the wall 72: ofslot 711111 presser7, located at the.

side ofthe presseriat which thefzl'ast and enclosing upper are presented, constitutes a guard for the upperby which injury to an adjoining upstanding portion'ofthenpper T by either the and or the needle is. prevented;

The lower vportionof thesaid guardwall-is removed asat 7 3, Fig. 4', to permitzthe lower part of the last-sideand the portion of upper side the last, through 'a -slot :71, Figs. 4-; and 5, 3 l

= of the said tools, as indicatedinFigs. .6 and The presser 7 is formed with .a narrow working edge, 74, substantially in line with ihework-penetration tools 1 and 3, in order that as the presser approaches the sole, the presser may act the more eiiicientlyin formingasharply defined bend in the upper and crowding it into the angle between the lastuide and the outstanding margin of the-sole, and in order that said tools may. penetrate the said bend and sole in line with said working edge.

The usual feed-movements of the work- ;est or under-clamp 6, presser 7, and awl are coordinated with the stitch-forming operations as heretofore, so that asv successive stitches are formed the last and applied shoeparts are fed along.

- In practice, satisfactory results can be secured with .the parts .as thus far described, provided the operator makes by hand suitable adjustment of the loose margin of the upper to distribute fulness of the upperaround coniexities of the last so as to be taken up properly by the successive stitches as they are formed. However, the invention in its more to swing. The required swinging movement' is impartedto the carrier 14 through actuatcomplete embodiment provides for moving the upper-margin along automatically at a manually-controllable rate, so that, as referred to at the outset in this specification, in going around conveXities of the last, as for example the fore-part and toe, anyexcess of the material of the upper-margin may be distributed between successive stitches and thereby may be prevented from showing. To this end, accordingly, I combine with the supplemental presser 12 means for producing teed-movements thereof. Thereby, a feedmovement of the supplemental presser 12 is caused to take place while the said presser continues to hold the margin of the upper firmly against the margin of the sole. This feed-movement is provided for by mounting the supporting carrier, "14, for the supplemental presser 12 with capacity for swinging movement in the direction, of the feed.

The said carrier is shown supported by a fixed plate 15 at the top of a fixed support 151, Fig. 1, and as having a vertical pivot 141, around the axis of which it is adapted ing devices comprising a link 142 connecting the carrier to one arm, 143, of a lever working around a vertical pivot 144 and having a second arm, 145,thereofengaged by a loosejoint connection, 146, with an arm, 1291, Figs.

1 and 2, of a rockshaft 1292.. Through the devices referred to, the supplemental presser is given feed-movements in the direction of the feed, and return-movements, in proper sequence with thecorresponding movements of the work-rest or under-clamp,. resser 7,

, In the case of the illustrated machine, the feed-movements and return-movements to starting position of the supplemental presser 12 alternate with those of the work-rest 6, presser 7, and awl. The cycle is as follows: Let it be assumed that the work-rest 6, presser 7, and awl have just completed an advancing feed-movement and for the moment occupy the relation to needle 3 corresponding with that shown in Fig. 2 in the case of the workrest and said presser. At this moment the supplemental presser 12 is at the starting point in its feed-stroke,as indicated in Fig. 2. Supplemental presser 12 closes down on the extended loose upper-margin, clamping it against the surface of the right side of the projecting sole-margin. The needle being engaged with the sole and upper margins, thejpresser 7 lifts and it and the awl and work-rest move to starting position, shown in Fig. 8, while concurrently therewith supplemental presser 12 is given its feed-movement to its relative position shown in Fig. 8, whereby the upper-margin is carried forwardagainst the needle-stem, fulling-up to a greater or less extent against the said stem, as

indicated in Fig. 14. The presser 7 now decends upon the upper-margin, thereby grasping the fulness and retaining it, the needle withdraws, the stitch is completed, the awl enters the upper and sole-margins in advance of the 'fulness held by the two pressers, the supplemental presser 12 rises, and as the ensuing feed-movements of the work-rest 6, presser '7, and awl 1, take place the supplemental presser 12 returns to starting position. To enable the extent of the feed-movements of the supplemental presser to be regulated, the link 142 is connected with the arm 143 of the motion transmitting lever in manner providing for adjustment of the point of connection inward and outward of the said arm, that is to say, toward and from the pivotal axis of the said lever. In this instance, the link 142 carries a small block 1422 that is slotted to fit-upon the arm 143, and adjustment is effected by swinging the link and thereby sliding the block upon the arm. The arm 143 is curved so as to be concentric with the pivot connecting the opposite end of link 142 with carrier 14, in order that the feed-movements of thesupplemental presser12 may end up in the same relation to needle 3 under all adjustments of the link along the arm 143. The eflect 'of'such adjustments is to vary the length of the said feed-movements by increasing or decreasing the length of the return strokes of such presser and thereby. advancing the starting point, or the reverse;

For the purpose of enabling the adjustment of link 142 along arm 143 to beeffected conveniently, especially while the mechanism is in operation, the link 142 has its end thereof adjacent thearm 143 joined by a link, 16,

i which the vthus bent tion a'last and shoe-parts applied thereto, means by which the outstanding margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from the last and held from movement toward the last, means operating to tighten the upper around the top and side of the last through acting upon the upper at a point intermediate the last-side and the said engaging means to bend the intermediate portion of the upper toward the sole, means for applying between the last-side and the engaging and holding means fastenings securing such bent portion of the upper to the sole in the angle alongside the last, and means for feeding the last and shoe forrepetitions of the respective operations.

2. A lasting and'fastening machine hav ing means for supporting for thelasting operation a'last and shoe-parts applied there to, means by which the outstanding margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance away from the last and held from movement toward the last, means v termediate portion" of upper atrapoint be tween the last-side and the engaging means and bending such intermediate portion toward the sole, thereby tightening the upper around the top and side of the last, and stitch-forming mechanism which fastens the thus bent portion of the upper to the sole by stitches between the side of the last and the engaging means, such mechanism feeding the lasted shoe progressively while successive stitches are formed.

3. A lasting and fastening machinehav- 'ing means for supporting for thelasting operationa last and shoe-parts appliedthere to, means by which the outstanding margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from the last and held from movement toward the last, stitching mechanism having a presser which reciprocates towardand from the plane 'ofithe'sole between the in approaching the sole'bends the intermediate portion of upperftoward the sole, thereby tightening the upper around the top and side of the last, and stitch-forming devices by port-ion of the upper is fastened to the sole by stitches between the side of-the last and the said engaging means.

4. A lasting and fastening machine having means for supporting for the lasting op- Cir eration a last and shoe-parts applied there'- to,,a presser device which engagesthe,out-- standing margin of the upper at a short distance from the last and holds such margin from movement toward the last-side, means for acting between the last-side and said device upon the intermediate portion of upper and bending such portion toward the sole, thereby tighteningthe upper around and side of'the last, means for applying fastening devices securing such bent portion of the upper to the sole between the lastand the acting upon the inr the top said dev -ice,iand means for feeding the last and shoe for repetitions of the respective operations; v I p 5. A lasting and fastening machine having means for supporting for the lasting operation a last and shoe-parts applied thereto,

said device. 7 .v

6, A lasting and fastening machine having means for supportingfor the lasting operatlon a last and shoe-parts applied tieretog a presser device which engages the out standing margin of the upper at a short distancefr om the last and holds such margin from movement toward the last-side, a

presser. which reciprocates toward and from the plane of the sole between the last-side and the said. device and in approaching the.

sole bends toward the sole the intermediate portion of upper, thereby tightening the upper around the topand side of the last, and stitch-forming mechanism which fastens the thus bent portion of the upper to the sole by stitches between the side of the last and the said device. i I g v 7. A lasting and fastening machine having means for supporting for thelasting operation a'last and shoe-parts applied thereto, anengagmg devicewhich engages the out standing margin of the upper at a short dis- I I 'tance from the last and holds suchmargin side of the last and such engaging means andi f rom movement toward the last-side, a presser which reciprocates toward and from the plane of the sole between the last-side and the said device and in approaching the sole bends toward the'sole' the portion of upper, therebytightening the upper around the top and side of the last, and a stitch-forming mechanism which fastens the thus bent portion of the upper to the sole by stitches between the side of the last and the said device, such mechanism having provisions for feeding the lasted shoe progressively while successive stitches are formed.

8. A lasting and fastening machine'having'means for supporting for the lasting operation alastand shoe-parts applied thereto,v a presser device which engages the outstandng margin of the upper at a short distance plane of the sole between the last-side and intermediate stitches betweenthe side of the lastand the said a device, such, 'inec-hanisin having r-piiOviv sionsfite'r feeding the lasted shoe progrea" ,Zing meansfersupporting-forthe 1asting0p r eration work compr sing sa-last and shoeproximately the sole and thesaidfdeviceandfiin-approaehing the isele bendsteward the stile-the intermediate per-- tion of upper, thereby tightening the upper around thetep 'and side of the last, and stitch-twining :IIlGCllzlDlSIl] whieh;-fastens the thus bent portion of theuppen t0 thesoleby sivelywhilesuccessive stitches are formed; 7

i9. lasting and fastening :rnachinerhav: i'ng stitcl'i-femning devices, a work-rest inclined upward and rearward toa degree presenting the side iota last inf-rontxef and clear ofthe lpath of the needle 'ofsaid devices,

with the angle between thexsaid side and the.

projecting inargin ifv the sole of a shoe ap- '1IlS11Cl1 path, and a resser-retoward and from the plane of eiprocating operating :to work an upperinto and the said prej ecting s0-le-n1argin,-therehy.

enablingthe :npper; .te :he astened very rclose 'to'an'dheld inithe-creas'e of the upper. -10. A Ilasting and "fasteningzniachine having stitch-forming. devices including stralght needle,a

presenting the aneet zoif th'eganjglebetween {the side off :a last and A'Ullfi sole substantially 1n said aath, with the said' s1'cle .-a-t'0ne slde there- 'ing, thejgnpper inte; the said apex.

d zfasten ng :maehine havincln-ding} a r v r lastfing a ing s st tch fornnng'; idevices straight awl and; a ;straight needlameans-hy which a last andxshoe-parts appliedhthereto are stipporte'difor the lasting and fastening applyingloperationswith 'thelp'la'n'e of-the sole at an inchnatiqnf'presenting t he last atQ-One' side Gi aud. clear eftheapath'ef the said a w-Ql and needle, alidwi h angle hetween the. apex t the entrant ing in'argin efthe stile substantially'sin athe said"v path, means by? which "the outstanding margin 0'1" the "upper is :engage d'sat a shortdistance from the last and thereby'held fro nf movementtowardTthe last,- and a reciprocating resser by which the? portion. of apper intermediatethelast and the-said engaging I and holding means is-bent into the said-angle to receive the stitches, thereby ralso tighten ing the upper aroun'djthe t'e'p and'side of the 5 last. *1-

12. A flastingfand, fastening machine having a work-rest and'a' resser, one thereof ariforce the upper into the: angle :be-

ranged to tween the "side of the last and the proj eating 1 adapted to support work comprisingealast and shoe-parts applied thereto,

margin of the sole, said work-rest 'Tbeing 'stitchingdevieesaeting to forin'in the saldan'gle stitche's sole together, such devices acting n angular 'fermatien :bet-ween'thelast-side I zworlierest inclined: 'npward: withjrelation 130153118 needle path :toa degree the last-side zandgthe 'pif oj ect- "holding device tovi move the upper-:rnargin and man-s1 ifier heldi-nggthe free ,iniargini of 1 1 ithe upiper. I from mo.vel nentiv toward the last while the intermediate portion of the -upper 1s';b'e1ng,::lf0rcedgintoatheganglel:aiferesaid,gand

ztroll ahleratewith eapacityd'tor a changein {the "*diilerential'iate elative to" the feednzb'y theistitehinggclevlc A lasting and :fastelning 'rnaehine :hav-

parts. (applied thereto, .a holding device "by no; 1 W

zhetweenzthe{last-sideand the said holding Q uppertewardthesole .and'therebytighten the rupperfaround the topgand side of thelast, 1

devieetdbendth'e intermediate portion-.oithe means for applying alengside the slast fasten zingsiseeuring such zhent portion: ofthe ,upper r-ter';thej.-sole and j feeding the work arprtzgressively,'and nea'nsactuating said holdingde- ,;-'viee :tol'in'ove athe .npper-margin.,alongiat a 9 1 g gn iannally"controllable,ratewithycapaeityyfor7 v aehangeinrthe'difi'erentialsnate.relativeto the I Wank-feed."

514;- A lasting yeration"workxcernprisinga lastrand shoe-parts iappliedethereto, .a holding device by which the last, i "means -iacting j upon :the' upper between the v:last. sideeand the said holding. de-- wiceitorhend the intermediate portion 1 ofithe a d{fast nin machi eem. a s for l pp' rb g Q W Bhe lastinglop-v E the outstanding margin of r the upper is env ,gaged at a shirt distance outward "from the :lastandiprevente'd from movement toward J iipper toward the sole and thereby tighten T f the up pergaround-'the'tep and side'or thelast, T

stitch-forming means which fastens the thus bent portion of ithe upperfte the s0le:;by

stitches rad-j acentthe sideiof the last and feeds -the-iw0rk. =:a long, ;andmeans gact-uating, said along at manually controllable" trate Iwith- @capacit lfor a change inethetdiflerential rate relative to the work-feed.

"il 5-x A laStlI 1g and fasteningima'chinehav- 1 y I the outstanding margin of the upper is .en-

"'gage'diatashort distance outward tro-mx-the i last and prevented from ineveinent toward :the last, meansvacting upon-theupper be- Jtweenthe last-side and thesaid holdingde- 'viceitobend the intermediate portion ofthe inpper toward the soleand thereby force the said portioninte the-angle between the lastside+and the xprojecting margins of the sole, @m'eans for applying in the said angleiastenings :securing the upper and soletogeth'er and ;ating said hqlding device-.te meve the ru per-j}.

feeding; the said margin atga manually 0011- 7 F9 y means for supporting for the lastingopera- 1 tion work comprising a last and sho'e parts applied thereto, a holding device by which i 5 theoutstanding margin of the upper is engagedat a short distance outward from the last and prevented from movement toward the last, means acting upon the upper between the last-side andthe said holding device to bend the intermediate portion of the upper toward the sole and force the said portion into-the angle between the last-side and the projecting margin of the sole, stitch-formiing means which fastens the thus bent portion of'the sole by stitches inthe apex of'the said angle and feeds the work along progressively, and means actuating said holding device to move the upper-margin alongat a manually controllable rate with capacity for a change -in the difierential rate relative to the workfeed. 7 a v 17 A lastin /and fastenin machine havi. g mg means for sup'porting for the lasting operation work comprising a last and shoe parts applied thereto, a holding device ,by/

Which tile outstanding margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from the'last and thereby held from movement to ward the last, a reciprocating presser which bends toward the sole the portion of upper intermediate the last-side and the'said holding device and forces the said portion into the angle between the 'lastsside and the projecting margin of the sole,stitch-forming means which fastens the thus bent portion of the sole by stitches in the apex oftthe said an le and feeds the work alon e Jro ressi-Vel h b and means actuating said holding deviceto move the upper-margin along at a manually controllable rate with capacity for a change in the differential rate relative to the .wo rkfeed. t

18. A lasting and'fastening machine having stitch-forming devices including --a straight needle, means by which work comprising a last and shoe-parts applied thereto is supported for the lasting operation with the'plane of the sole at an inclination presenting the side of the last at one side of and clear of thepath of the said needle, while-the apex of the entrant angle between the said side and the projecting. margin of the sole is located substantially in said path, a'holding device by which the outstanding margin of the upper is engaged at a short distance outward from'the last and held from movement toward thelast, means forbending toward the sole the portion of upper intermediate the last-side and the "said holding'device and forcing the said portion into the said angle, the said stitch-forming devices being arranged to fasten thethus bent portion of the r sole by stitches in the said apex, and feed the prising a last and shoe-parts applied thereto 7 is supported forthe lasting operation with the plane of the sole at an inclination presenting the side of the last at one side of and clear of the path of the said needle, while the apex of the entrant angle between the said side and the projecting marginof the sole is located substantially in said path, a holding device by which the outstanding margin'of the upper is'engaged'at a short distance outward from the last and held from movement toward the last, a presser which reciprocates toward and from the plane of the sole and said holding device and in approaching the sole bends the intermediate portionof the upper toward the sole, in addi tion crowding the bent portion into the said apex, the said stitch-forming devices being arranged to fastenthe thus bent portion of the sole by stitches in the said apex, and feed the work along progressively, and means actuating said holding device to move the uppermargin along at a manually controllable rate with capacity for 'a change in the differential rate relative to the work-feed.

20. A lasting. and fastening machine havinga work-rest for supporting for the lasting operation work comprising a last and v shoe-parts applied thereto, a'presser-member by which the outstanding margin of the up peris clamped between such memberand the sole where backed-up'by the work-rest so that the said margin thereby is held from movement toward the last-side, means for acting upon'lthe portion of upper intermediate the presser-member and the last-side and bending vsuch portion toward the sole, thereby tightening the upper around'the top and side ofthe last, devices for applying alongside thelast fastenings securing such bent portion of the upper to the sole and for feeding the work along, and means-for actuating said presser-member to move the upp r-margin along at a manually controllable rate with capacity for a change in the differential rate with respect to the work-feed.

21. A lasting and fastening machine having a work-rest for supporting for the lasting operation work comprising a last and shoepartsapplied thereto, a supplemental presser-member by which theoutstanding margin of the upper is clamped against the sole where the latter is backed-up by'the work-rest so that'the said margin thereby is, held from movement toward the last-side, a presser which reciprocates toward and from the plane I holding means, 7 v

tw en the side of thee-last and thefsole havmg ithe sole bet en las si e aml thasllp- 'Pl mental P esser and n appr hine ha le g fil ls' ow r th sole the inte medi t port enw ppe e e y e 1te ng-jthe p- I perali lind the pand's de o eflast, 9

i -s f r apply n ongsidelth a -f s ens ings securing such bent portion of the apper; to thesoleand for feeding the work along andmeans for actuating said resser-member, o mor the, pper-marg along a a manual 1y controllable rate withcapacityfqr a change,

in the difieren i' 'l ate t I resp c t w the work-feed .22., A lasting fastening rnachinehari-l 5%; ing; stitch-forming and Work feeding devices ncl d ng i-S raig ne d l l e t b l which; work comprising a'last andshoe-parts applied thereto i SilPPOItQdiO'r "the lasting 7 p ra w hithe 'p ane of the 01 a 12 in l na io p s nting he. t i e' Y at one d io n a 9f, th p h as. id needl while" the apex or e"ent antan leb en;

' the last-side, and the, proj eotingfmarginof the, sole iSlQcated substantially 'said path, v a upp e al press r-member by wh ch said margin is clamped against the sole-man gin so that the said margin is held from o me t f ar J l s teel P ess which reciprocates' toward and from the,

plane of; the solebetyveen the .last si' deg andthe supplemental presserjand in approaching the: so e. b ndsto r lthe b tll fin ermed -r thereby, tightening they te p r on f PPQ p a ion la ta d hQ -Pa ppli were to, stitch-forming devices including aj worksl penetrating tool, means by which zthe"outstanding; m r nof t pp r isii e e a a short @di tance from the. last and thereby held from ,moveinentjtoward'the last, a press-z 7 e]; which reciprocatesiparalleli withv the ork penetratingjtool of the stitch-forming deand from theplane of the sole last-side and the engaging and and enters, into theiangle be ice o rd between the a narrow Working edge which as the 'presserr approaches-i the; sole bends the 7 intermediate portion ,of uppertowar'd' the sole; thereby tighteningthe ,upper around. thetop and sidelof the lastandycrowding the bend into the angle between the last-sideand the out standing margin ofj:the.sole, the stitch-form ijng devices -hav1ng the Work penetrating tool thereof arrangedjto penetrate the, 'said bend L with na -.W ee a and th o ei fh.

dg last ng; and, fastening jnl aehlne upper around the top andfsi'de of the last,"and r fastening operations; a, a

lasting: andfseWi 1 1g 1naohii1e having J for :snpporting for the o, lasting; 1 operation a last-and shoegparts applied there-o mainwo krfed '1 i 1 havingmeans for supporting for the lasting Q operation a last and shoe-parts appliecl'thereto, means for applying fastening's which see" care thelnpper to the sole alongthe side of i e'le twerk-fe e ns a. ember are ranged to engage the Uppermargin acentf;

the point at gwhichthe fastenings are applied,"

means actuating saidimember tomoife along;

with the upper-marginat a manually con? trollable ratewithcapacity for a changel inits 7 rate ofr feed relativeto, the ork-feed, q meansprov ding a, pivotal mounting fof Said member which isglaterally removed from the said inembenliaving a supporting arm, whlch ls recuryed ntermedlatethe prvotal axis and" supporting and fastening applying means,

saidsupportin and fastening means, wi'tlra clear unobstructed openingl joalongside the,

latter Qt aCcO InmCdate the operators hand} mp e ed for nlanip t ne th p s-ma r sinsdur ngthe l st g a fas ning p a? 25A lasting andfasteningmachinehay o -l pp f i th l ting r last and shoeparts applied .there 9,,

pointat which the fastenings. are; applied,

means aetuating said member to moire, along with" the,{upperanarginat a mannallyicon 'trollablerate with capacity .for adjustment ff-i f lted ,f d r l tiv o e ork-feed,

@11 1 means ,proyiding a pivotal l nonnting forsaid member, such meajnsbemg arranged-for.

operation of aid; member closely alongside the fastening-applying. means, With a clean: I

open space adjo ning: such member to. admit e-ep et r oha t ".perm ip lafiien pi -th u p rr reinld r e the sting; and r f Q e wo k-res anaw i, and a n ed e;

along during the stitching; processand coma.

prisingthe main work-feed, and hayingoin I V comb natlon W ththesaldelementsamember o gement W the e dn 'mar m of the upper, andmeans for'act'nating said i emb r t 'eng gaflwfih the a gin. at Ia short distance ontward from the last, hold snchmargin from'movement toward the last V. v 1. to, a-presser 'whlchjreelprocates;toward nd 7 7 While the presser descends upon, therupper I between theTme'mber and-thelast andlbends 1 125 sideand the outstanding margin ofthe sole,

th e jp'p r t th a g e be wee e la tand feed] the upper-margin: forwardat W a adjustmentoras rat of feedzrelative ofihe.

7 il k,l0

:means,for iapp'lyingsfastenings whifih SCiIr e, the sh pper to]; the sole "along the Sidl of the 1 '1ast, ;W0rk-feeding means, a member arranged ie en a e. t 'upp r-a gin dj e 1 i said workmest, resser, andl moving i 'f un son; for, feed ng the "last; andshoe-jparts 5 A lasting andsewing machine having a work-rest for supporting for'the lasting operation a last and shoe-parts applied there to,apresser which reciprocates-toward and from the work-rest, an awhand a needle, the

said work-rest, presser, and awl moving in unison for feeding the last and shoe-parts alongduring' the stitching process and comprising the'm'ain work-feed, and having combined with the said elements a supplementary presser and means for actuating such supplemcntary 'presser to press'upon the outv standing margin of the upper at a short distance outward from the last, hold such margidfrom movement toward the last while the Presser descends-upon the upper between the supplementary presser and the last-side and bends the upper into the-angle between the last-side and the outstanding marginof the sole, and feed'the upper-marginforward at a manually controllable rate with capacity.

1 for a change in its rate of feed relativeto the and 'awl; such mechanism includingf also' a' 7 0 ward'beneath the'upraised presser,ffulling main work-teed. g

28. A lasting and sewing machinehaving means for support ng for the lasting operation a last and shoe-parts applied thereto, and stitchingmechanism including a needle presser which during the stitching operations reciprocates toward and from said supporting means, and having c'ombine'd with the said elements a member which engages with theflmargin of the'upper and carries it forit against the needle' so that the fulness'is v grasped by the descending presser and re- -tained by the latter beyondthe awl as the" latter performs its penetrating, stroke. c

j 29. A lasting and sewing machine having means for supporting for the lasting operati'on alast and shoe-parts appl ed thereo, and stitching mechanism includinga needle and i awl, such mechanismincluding also a-presser which during the stitchlng operatlons reciption is engaged by the presser'and awl.

30. Alasting and fastening machine having means for supporting for the lasting operation work comprising a last and shoeparts appliedthereto, stitching devicesifor uniting the upper'to the sole'by stitches in I the angle between the last-sideand the outstanding marginal portion of the" sole, a

member which engages the outstanding'up per-margin and prevents it from moving toward the last, means actuating said-member tomove inward'toward'the last, engage with 'the'upper-margin and then noveinthe direc- 31. A-lasting and fastening machine hav-' ing meansfor supporting lor tl'ie lasting operation a lasthavingapplied thereto a sole and an upperwith outturned' loose margin, a pressure which clamps the loose margin ofthe upper against the surface oi the projecting'sole-margin-at a short distance from the last, a secondpresser which actsnearer the last-side to bend-against said surface the intermediate portion of upper extending obliquely from the last to the presser first mentioned, both of said pressers having feedmovements, and means "for securing the bent portion of'the upper by fastenings applied to thesole alongside the last. i 32. A lasting andtastening machine having means for supporting, right side up, for the lasting-operation a last having applied thereto as'ole and anruppe'r-with outturned l0osemargin," a presser which clamps the loosemargin of the upper against the surltace of the projecting sole-margin at a'short distance from the last, a second presser which acts nearer the 'last-side to bend against said surface the intermediate portion of uppercextending obliquely outward from sis the last to the presser first mentioned, both of said pressers having feed movement, and means for securing the, bent portion of the upper by -fastenings applied to "the sole" alongsidethe last. 1 V e V 33. A lasting and fastening machinehav mg means'for supporting-tor the lasting opv erationa lasthaving applied thereto a sole and an upper with outturned loose margin,

a presser which clamps the'loose margin of the-upper against the surfaceof the project- I in'g sole-margin at a short distance from the la'st, a second presser which acts nearer the last-side to bend aga nst said-surface the intermediate portion of upper extendingobliquely from the last to the pressure first mentioned, "both of said pressers having feed-movement, that of the first presser diiiF ferentially proportioned with respect to the rate at which the last and shoe-parts are fed along, to'dispose of excess fulness of the upper 'and'm-eans for securing the bent portion'of the upperby Tastenings applied to the sole alongside the last. V 1' 34. A lasting and fastening machine having means forlsupporting, rights'id'e up, for I the lasting operation alast having applied thereto asole and an upper with o'utturned loose margin, a presser which clamps the loose margin of the upper against the surface oi the projectingsole-margin at a short distancelfromfi the last, a secondpresser which acts nearer the 1ast side to bend against said surface thejintermediate portion of upperextending obliquely outward from the last to V I the presserfirst mentionedflooth of said pressers having feed-movement, 7 that of' the first presser differentially proportioned .with respect to the rate at which the last and shoe- .parts are fed along, to dispose ofexcess fulnessof the upper, and means for securing V the bent portion of the upper by fastenings I applied to the sole-alongside the last.-

35. A lasting and fastening machine .com-

prising a 'work-r-estfor supporting a last, v and shoe-parts applied thereto, a supplemental presserhy which the outstanding loose margin .of the upper is engaged at a shortv distance outward from the last-side and whereby such margin is held from movement toward the last-side, a .presser reciprov .catingtoward and from the plane of th'es'ole between the last-side and the supplemental presser and in approaching the sole operating to tighten the upper around the top and i 7 side of the last throughjbending the'interme-' I diate 'portion'of the uppertowardthe sole, 1 fan awl and a needlepenetrating the sole and J I the upper between the said supplemental presser and the last-side institch-forming operations by which fastening stitches are 1 formed close alongside the last, said work rest,'presser, and one of the penetrating implements having. work-feeding movements in unison and said s ipplemental presserhaving' upper-margin fee -movements taking place during the return movements of the presser.

36. A lastingan d fastening machine comprisin a work-restjfor supporting a last ands oe-parts applied thereto,,a supplemental' presser by twhich' theoutstanding'; i M 'loosemargin of the upperjisengaged'at a ,7 "short 'distaneeioutward' from Lthe,l'ast-sidg'e-v 1,; i i ifandwhereloysuch 'margin isjheld'fromjmoveagl V ment toward thev last-side, a presser reci'p'ro I eating toward and from the plane of the sole 7 between the last-side and the supplemental presserand in approaching the sole operat-J H ing to itighten the upper around the top and side of the lasti through bendingthe inter-i" mediate portion of the upper toward the sole;

an awl and a needle penetrating theisole and the upper between the said supplemental presser and the last-side in stitch-forming operations "loy v which fastening stitches are formed close alongside'the last, said workrest, presser, and .awljhaving work-feeding 1 movements in unison andsaid supplemental presser having. upper-margin feed-move- @ments taking placedurlng the return move- I ments of thepresser.

FRANK annie K 

